Glossary of rock climbing terms

Original article from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

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How to Rock Climb!
by John Long

This article describes common terms and jargon used in rock climbing.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

Abseil

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

Aid climbing

A form of rock climbing that requires artificial assistance, i.e. ropes, to ascend.

Anchor

A fail-safe attachment point for protection.

Approach

The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arete

The outside corner of rock. See also dihedral.

Ascender

A device for ascending on a rope. A mechanical ascender is called a jumar.

ATC

A proprietary type of belay device. ATC stands for Air traffic controller.

B

B-grade

A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superceeded by the "V" grading system.

A hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The belay rope is clipped into a quickdraw in the wrong direction causing an increase in friction on the rope and an increase in the likelihood of the rope becoming unclipped during a fall.

Bail

To give up on a climb.

Belay

Protecting a climber from falling using a rope.

Belay device

A mechanical device used when belaying. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight, tuber, and the Munter hitch. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders.

Belay slave

Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeatted belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.

Beta

Advice and/or instructions on how to successfully complete a particular climbing route.

Beta flash

Ascent of a climb on the first attempt with some knowledge beta of that climb, with no falls or hangdogging. Also see on-sight.

Bolt

An anchor-point permanently drilled into the rock.

Bomb-proof anchor

A totally secure anchor, or set of anchors. Also known as a bomber. Sadly, anchors are often misclassified as such.

Bouldering

The practise of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.

Bounce

A deadly fall.

Bucket

A huge handhold.

Buildering

The art of climbing on buildings. Note that this is often illegal.

C

Cam

1. To affix using counter-pressure.

2. A spring-loaded device used to place protection. See Spring loaded camming device.

Campus board

Training equipment used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.

Carabiner

Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner.

Chalk

A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.

Chalk bag

A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually clipped or tied onto the climber's harness for easy access during a climb.

Chock

A mechanical device, or a wedge, used to attach anchors into cracks.

Clean

1. To remove equipment from a route.

2. A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.

3. To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.

Cleaning tool

A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.

Climbing area

A region that is plentiful with climbing routes.

Climbing command

a short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.

Climbing gym

Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing.

Climbing shoe

Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.

Climbing technique

Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.

Climbing wall

Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.

Clipping in

The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.

Crack Climbing

To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. See jamming.

Crag

A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.

Crank

To pull on a hold as hard as possible.

Crash pad

A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall.

Crimp

1. a small but positive hold.

2. the process of holding onto a crimp.

Crux

The most difficult portion of a climb.

D

Daisy chain

A type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. In many situations this can be more versatile than a normal sling.

Dead hang

To hang limp, such that weight is held by arm tension rather than muscles.

Deadman

A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.

Deadpoint

The apex of an upward dynamic move.

Deck

1. The ground.

2. To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall.

Descender

A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners.

Dialed

To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.

Dihedral

The inside corner of rock. See also arete.

Downclimb

To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb. An alternative to abseilling.

Dynamic rope

A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.

Dyno

A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Non-climbers might call this a lunge.

E

Edge

A thin ledge on the rock.

Edging

Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold.

Egyptian

A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms while holding a side grip.

Eight

A belay device or descender. Named from its appearance as the digit "8".

Exposure

State of openness with relation to the distance of a fall.

F

Face climbing

To ascend on a rock face using finger hold and edges, i.e. not crack climbing.

Fall

Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.

Finger board

Training equipment used to build grip strength and arm strength.

First ascent

The first successful completion of a route.

Fist jam

A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique.

Fixed rope

A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.

Flake

A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.

Flapper

An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape.

Flash

To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt.

Follow

What the second does.

Free climbing

Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.

G

Grade

Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficultly of a particular climbing route or bouldering problem. More often is highly subjective, however.

GriGri

A belay device designed to be easy to use and safe for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl.

Gripped

Scared.

Grovel

1. To climb with obviously poor style or technique.

2. A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.

Gumby

An inexperienced climber.

Gym climbing

Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.

H

Hand Traverse

Traversing without any footholds.

Hangdog

While lead climbing, to hang on the rope or an anchor for a rest.

Hanging Belay

Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.

Harness

Climbing equipment used for attaching a rope to a person.

Haul bag

A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.

Headwall

The region of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.

Helmet

Also known as a brain bucket. It can save your life, but only while worn.

Hexcentric

A protective device. It is a hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.

Honed

To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.

Hook

1. Equipment used in aid climbing.

2. A climbing technique.

I

Indoor climbing

See gym climbing.

J

Jamming

Wedging a body part into a crack.

Jug hold

A large hold, also known just as a jug.

K

Klemheist knot

An alternative to the prussik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.

Knots

Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.

L

Lead climbing

A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb.

Lieback

Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.

Locking carabiner

A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.

M

Mantle

A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above.

Match

To use one hold for two limbs, or to swap limbs on a particular hold.

Mountain rescue

A friendly team of people that will come and rescue you after an injury or accident. Also see coroner.

Move

Application of a specific climbing technique to progress on a climb.

Multi-pitch climbing

Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.

Munter hitch

A simple hitch that is often used for belaying without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.

N

Nut

A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.

O

Off-width

A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams.

On-sight

A clean ascent, with no prior practise or beta.

Open book

An inside angle in the rock.

Overhang

A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof.

P

Pinkpoint

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. Also see clean and redpoint.

Pitch

The portion of a climb between two belay points.

Piton

A metal spike that may be hammered into ice or flaws in rock.

Protection

1. Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.

2. Equipment or anchors used for preventing falls. Commonly known as Pro.

Prusik

1. A knot used for ascending a rope.

2. To use a prusik knot for ascending a rope.

Q

Quickdraw

Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks. Sometimes called quickies.

R

Rack

The set of equipment carried up a climb.

Rappel

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Abseil.

Redpoint

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.

Roof

Horizontal overhang.

Rope

An essential item of climbing equipment.

Route

The path of a particular climb, or a predefined set of moves.

Runner

Another term for sling.

Runout

1. The span between two points of protection.

2. A long portion of a route without adequate protection.

S

Scrambling

Non-technical climbing.

Screamer

A long and loud fall.

Scree

Loose, broken rock that climbers can never avoid.

Second

A climber who follows the lead, or first, climber.

Sewing machine leg

The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee".

Sharp end

The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.

Side grip

Use of a horizontal hold.

Sit start

Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common on short sport climbing routes and in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb.

Slab

A relatively flat and featureless block of rock.

SLCD

Abbreviation for spring loaded camming device, a type of protection device. These are better known by the term cam.

Sling

Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.

Smearing

To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.

Solo climbing

Climbing without any protection.

Sport climbing

A form of climbing where grace and technical (or gymnastic) ability are considered more important than danger, exhilaration or brute strength. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors.

Spotting

An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering. A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.

Static rope

A non-elastic rope. Compare with dynamic rope.

Stem

The simultaneous use of two, widely spaced, footholds.

Sticht plate

A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht.

Stopper

1. A wedge-shaped nut.

2. A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.

T

Top rope

To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.

Tuber

A belay device.

Traverse

To climb in a horizontal direction.
A feature of a rock that allows, relatively, easy progress in a horizontal direction.

1 Original Wikipedia article: Climbing Glossary
2 Glossary of mountaineering terms